Ever wanted homegrown, juicy tomatoes, but don’t have much space for gardening? Pots are the perfect solution!
Containers will allow you to grow your own tomatoes right in a balcony, patio, or small garden.
To set yourself up for success, choose compact tomato varieties. You’ll also need a spacious pot and a high-quality potting mix.
Just remember that tomatoes in pots need a bit more watering and feeding than those growing in the ground.
This guide covers everything you need to know to grow healthy tomato plants in containers!
Before Growing Tomatoes in Pots | Best Varieties for Pots | Choosing the Right Pot | Preparing the Soil | Where to Place Potted Plants | Steps to Grow Tomatoes in Pots | Care | Common Problems | Harvesting
Growing Tomatoes in Pots vs. in the Ground
Besides letting you save space, tomatoes in pots come with many other advantages vs. a garden bed.
One is mobility. You can easily move pots to follow the sun, or to protect your plants from harsh conditions like heat waves, rain, or strong winds.
Containers also reduce tomato plants’ exposure to diseases, particularly those that can linger in the soil.
However, you do have to keep some things in mind.
Compared to garden beds, the soil in pots dries out faster and nutrients can leach easily.
That’s why potted tomatoes need to be watered and fertilised a lot more than those in the ground.
Before Growing Tomatoes in Pots: What to Know
To grow healthy tomatoes, it’s important to get the conditions right.
Tomatoes prefer warm, dry climates, ideally with a temperature range of 15°C–29°C.
They can also do well in tropical and subtropical areas. Just provide some shelter during wet weather, as too much moisture can increase the risk of disease.
In colder climates, tomatoes can survive, but note that anything below 0°C will kill them!
Moreover, tomatoes need full sun.
At least six hours of direct sunlight each day is ideal so they can grow strong and produce a generous yield.
If temperatures regularly go above 32°C, give the plants some afternoon shade to avoid heat stress.
What Are the Best Tomatoes to Grow in Pots?
The best tomato varieties to grow in pots are determinate types, especially if you’re short on space.
Indeterminate varieties are also an option, but there are extra considerations.
Growing determinate tomatoes in pots
Determinate tomatoes (also called bush types) grow to a fixed height, usually 0.5–1.5m.
Since they’re compact, they’re suitable for pots and small spaces.
They’re also easy to manage, needing less pruning and staking than indeterminate varieties.
Great options include:
- TINY TIM: A dwarf cherry tomato, usually about 50cm tall
- PATIO: About 50cm tall and produces medium-sized fruits
- TATURA DWARF: An Australian heirloom that grows 60–80cm tall
- GOLD NUGGET: An heirloom cherry tomato that reaches 1–1.5m tall
Growing indeterminate tomatoes in pots
Indeterminate tomatoes (or vining types) often grow vigorously and are a lot taller than determinate varieties.
They’re called ‘indeterminate’ as they keep sprawling until they die back, so you can’t usually tell their final height.
That’s also why they usually do better in raised beds and open spaces.
But even so, you can plant indeterminate tomatoes in containers.
Just note that this is usually recommended only if the garden soil is not suitable — for example, if it’s affected by disease or is too compacted.
Also, keep in mind that these varieties need a much bigger and deeper pot.
You’ll also need to set up a strong support system, since these tomatoes can grow 2–3m tall.
Some popular indeterminate varieties are:
- BIG BEEF: A beefsteak tomato that produces large fruit
- GROSSE LISSE: Aussie favourite for sandwiches and sauces
- SAN MARZANO: A type of Roma or plum tomato; great for Italian dishes
Choosing the Right Pot for Tomatoes
Picking the right size and type of container for tomatoes ensures that you get healthy plants and plenty of fruit!
Pot size
So, how wide and deep do containers have to be for tomatoes?
Tomatoes’ roots spread both outward and downward, so they need big pots!
A larger pot also means more soil volume, which helps retain the nutrients and moisture that tomatoes need.
Here’s the recommended pot size for tomatoes:
- Determinate tomatoes: 40–50cm wide and deep
- Indeterminate tomatoes: at least 70cm wide and deep
Indeterminate tomatoes need a bigger pot since they grow tall. This keeps them from becoming top-heavy and falling over!
Pot type
The ideal container for tomatoes is a fabric grow bag. It’s made from cloth, which allows good drainage and air circulation.
It also helps prevent potted plants from becoming root-bound (when roots start circling the pot).
As tomato roots grow and reach the edge of the bag, they’re exposed to air through the fabric.
By then, the roots stop adding length — a process called ‘air pruning.’
When that happens, tomato plants start to grow new roots instead, which creates a stronger root system.
One downside is that the soil might dry more quickly in fabric pots, since they’re very breathable.
To manage this, choose a fabric grow bag with a partial lining — it should not cover the entire bag.
The lining keeps some moisture in, while the unlined part still lets out excess water.
Aside from fabric grow bags, plastic pots are also a good option, since they hold moisture better than porous materials.
Choose a light coloured plastic pot, as dark ones can trap heat and stress tomatoes’ roots.
You can also use a clear plastic pot, which makes it easier to check soil moisture and root health.
However, place the clear pot inside an opaque container to avoid exposing the roots to too much light.
Clay or terracotta containers can also work. These are breathable and allow good air flow around the roots.
Just note that the soil dries out faster in clay or terracotta pots since they’re porous.
If you’re using a plastic or clay pot, make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom, as tomatoes hate soggy soil.
Preparing the Potting Soil for Tomatoes
The best soil to grow tomatoes in pots is a well-draining, premium potting mix. It should be rich and slightly acidic to neutral (6.2–6.8 pH level).
Do not use garden soil, as that’s usually too heavy for pots.
When buying a potting mix, look for one that’s made for vegetables or container gardening.
It should have ingredients that can hold some moisture and improve air flow around the root zone. Examples are:
- Perlite
- Peat moss
- Vermiculite
- Compost or manure
- Coco coir (coconut fibre)
You can also go DIY. Just mix equal parts of coco coir or peat moss, compost, and perlite.
To give tomatoes an extra boost of nutrients, mix in some slow-release balanced NPK fertiliser. Then, add bone meal or gypsum to supply calcium.
When you’re done, check the soil pH with a test kit from your local garden centre. Follow the directions on the packaging for accurate results.
TIP: If you need help getting your potting mix ready or adjusting the pH, don’t hesitate to reach out to a gardening expert.
They can also lend a hand with planting to set up your tomatoes for success!
Where to Place Your Potted Tomatoes
It’s important to consider where to place your potted tomatoes, since they need lots of sun.
That means growing them outdoors is ideal, but some gardeners — particularly those in colder climates — keep them indoors.
Growing potted tomatoes outdoors
For healthy fruit production and better plant health, make sure your tomatoes get 6–8 hours of sunlight every day.
Place the pots in a sunny spot, such as a balcony, patio, or driveway.
If some parts of the plants are shaded, rotate them every 2–3 days for even sun exposure.
This encourages the plants to form a more balanced, bushy shape and keeps them from leaning towards the light.
On hot and dry days, group pots close together to help retain some moisture.
Just be careful not to overcrowd the plants. For good air flow, leave at least 0.5m between determinate varieties and 1m between indeterminate ones.
Growing potted tomatoes indoors
Tomatoes grown indoors usually produce fewer fruits than those grown outdoors.
Still, if you live in a colder area with a short growing season, you can try growing them inside.
Choose determinate varieties to save space.
Then, use full-spectrum LED grow lights for 14–16 hours a day. The lights should be 20–25cm above the plants.
You’ll also need to pollinate the flowers by hand.
Once your tomatoes bloom, gently tap each flower’s stem several times a day. This helps spread the pollen and encourages fruit set.
Step-by-Step Guide to Growing Tomatoes in Pots
Ready to grow tomatoes in pots? You can start from tomato seeds, but a store-bought seedling is also a great option!
Step 1: Sowing tomato seeds
Timing is important when sowing tomato seeds so you can avoid frost and maximise the growing season.
In Australia, here’s when to start based on your local climate:
- WARM TEMPERATE: 6-8 weeks before spring
- TROPICAL AND SUBTROPICAL: Start of dry season (March to April)
- COOL AND COOL TEMPERATE: 6-8 weeks before the last expected frost
In cooler regions, it’s best to sow seeds indoors and keep them warm until it’s time for transplanting.
To start, dampen the seed starter mix and fill your starter pot or tray.
Make tiny holes about 0.5cm deep. Place 1 or 2 tomato seeds in, and then cover lightly with soil.
Place the container in a warm, bright spot, and keep the soil consistently moist.
Tomato seeds usually germinate in 5–10 days. If two seedlings sprout, cut off the weaker one.
Step 2: Hardening off tomato seedlings
To prevent transplant shock, gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor conditions (also called ‘hardening off’).
Start the process after any risk of frost has passed, or when nighttime temperatures stay at 15°C or higher.
Place the tomato seedlings in a shaded, sheltered spot outdoors for a few hours, then bring them back in.
Each day, slightly increase their time outside.
Keep doing this for about 2 weeks. When the plants can stay out day and night without showing any signs of stress, you can move them into pots!
Step 3: Transplanting tomatoes into pots
You can transfer your tomato seedlings into their permanent container once the weather is consistently warm.
By this time, the tomatoes would have 3–4 sets of healthy leaves and are around 15–20cm tall.
Gently remove each seedling from its starter pot, and trim off the lowest set of leaves.
Use a large container — about 40–50cm wide for determinate tomatoes and at least 70cm wide for indeterminate plants.
Fill it with potting mix, leaving about 5cm of space below the rim.
Dig a hole and bury the seedling deep enough so only the top one-third of the plant is above the soil.
This encourages roots to grow along the buried part of the stem, helping your plants become more stable.
Finally, backfill with soil, gently firm it around the base, and water thoroughly.
Step 4: Setting up a support structure for potted tomatoes
Providing a support structure for tomatoes helps them stay upright, and keeps leaves and fruits off the ground.
You’ll need to set up support right after transplanting tomatoes in pots to avoid disturbing the roots.
Some determinate tomatoes (like Patio or Tiny Tim) may not need stakes at all, although some support can still help.
Use a single, sturdy stake that’s 1.5–2m tall. You can use either a wooden or a metal one.
For indeterminate tomatoes, you can use a traditional tomato cage at least 2m tall and 50cm wide.
Push the stake or cage firmly into the soil, and check if it’s stable.
As the plant grows, tie the main stem to the stake or cage using soft garden ties or strips of cloth.
The ties should be loose enough to allow the stem to thicken.
How to Care for Tomatoes in Pots
Potted tomatoes may be a bit more demanding, but proper care will reward you with a bigger harvest!
Watering
Soil dries out faster in pots than in the ground, so container-grown tomatoes need more frequent watering.
To check soil moisture, push a stick about 5cm into the ground. If it comes out clean, it’s time to water.
You can also do the finger test to feel if the top 5cm of the soil is dry.
If it is, water deeply until the water starts running out of the fabric grow bag or through the holes in the bottom of the pot.
This ensures that the entire root ball gets a good drink!
Also, water plants at the base to keep the leaves from getting wet and prevent fungal issues.
You might need to water potted tomatoes twice a day if the weather is too hot, or if your tomatoes are flowering or producing fruit.
TIP: Applying a layer of organic mulch like shredded bark or chopped leaves can keep the soil moist for longer!
Fertilising
Fertilising tomatoes is essential, since they’re heavy feeders — especially if planted in containers.
That’s because nutrients can wash out of the soil each time you water.
Here’s a simple feeding guide to keep your potted tomatoes healthy:
| TOMATO PLANT STAGE | FERTILISER | HOW OFTEN TO USE |
| 2–3 weeks after planting | Diluted fish emulsion | Every 1–2 weeks |
| 3–4 weeks after transplanting | Balanced NPK (10-10-10) fertiliser | Every 1–2 weeks |
| Flowering and fruit set | Fertiliser lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium | If liquid: Every 1–2 weeks If granular: Every 4 weeks |
| Calcium sources | Every 2–3 weeks |
For the first 2–3 weeks, your tomato seedling will use nutrients from the potting mix, so fertilising isn’t always necessary.
But if the soil wasn’t enriched beforehand, you can apply a diluted fish emulsion every 1–2 weeks.
Around week 3 or 4, start feeding your potted plants with a balanced NPK fertiliser to encourage leafy growth.
Once flowers appear, switch to a fertiliser that’s lower in nitrogen but higher in phosphorus and potassium. This helps support fruit production.
During this stage, don’t forget to supply calcium as well.
Always check the fertiliser’s label for any instructions on how much and how often to feed your tomatoes!
Pruning
Pruning tomatoes improves airflow and helps prevent disease. It also directs the plants’ energy towards producing fruit rather than excess foliage.
For determinate tomatoes (bushy types), only a little pruning is needed. Just remove any leaves that are touching the soil or are turning yellow.
You’ll also need to do this for indeterminate tomatoes. But beyond that, they need additional pruning, since they can grow vigorously.
These plants send out suckers, which are shoots that grow at a 45-degree angle between the main stem and a branch.
Pinch them off as they can steal the plants’ energy.
Towards the end of the growing season, you also need to cut off the main growing tip at the very top of the plants.
This helps the tomatoes focus on ripening any existing fruit, instead of producing new leaves.
No matter the type of tomato, be careful not to overprune, especially once the plants start flowering!
Leaves are needed for photosynthesis and can help shield fruits from intense sunlight.
Common Problems with Potted Tomatoes
The good thing about container plants is that they’re easy to move, especially during harsh weather.
This can help you avoid common tomato problems, like fungal issues during rainy months and sunscald on the fruit.
And if you used a fresh potting mix, you don’t need to worry about soil-borne diseases.
That said, growing tomatoes in containers also comes with its own set of challenges.
Inconsistent watering
Container tomatoes can be prone to water-related problems since soil dries out faster in pots.
If they don’t get a consistent supply of water, the fruit can develop issues like blossom end rot and splitting.
Blossom end rot shows up as a dark, sunken spot at the bottom of the fruit.
This is also linked to calcium deficiency — without enough water, tomatoes can’t absorb calcium from the soil.
Moreover, the fruits can crack or split if the plant suddenly absorbs too much moisture.
To prevent these issues, water tomatoes on schedule. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Root rot
Some gardeners try to compensate for the fast-drying soil by watering too much or too often.
However, overwatering tomatoes can cause root rot. When this happens, you’ll notice the tomato leaves turning yellow.
And if you dig around the base of the plant, you might see the roots turning dark, mushy, and foul-smelling.
Unfortunately, there’s no cure for root rot, and many plants don’t survive. But if you catch it early, you might be able to save your tomato.
Just note that this can be very challenging to do with tall indeterminate tomatoes that have extensive support or those in the fruiting stage!
To start, remove the tomato from its pot, then cut off the affected roots. Spray the rest of the roots with a solution of 1:4 hydrogen peroxide and water.
Sanitise the pot with a mixture of 2:1 hydrogen peroxide and water. Then, replant the tomato using a fresh potting mix.
Afterwards, disinfect the tools you used and dispose of the trimmed roots in a sealed bag.
To avoid root rot, ensure good drainage. Always let the top layer of soil dry slightly before watering your tomatoes again.
Nutrient deficiencies
Nutrients can leach out of potted soil quickly. This means container-grown tomatoes are more likely to suffer from nutrient deficiencies.
These often show up as discoloured leaves or slow plant growth. Common signs include:
- Leaf edges turning yellow (potassium deficiency)
- Pale green, yellowing leaves (nitrogen deficiency)
- Purple or reddish tint on leaves (phosphorus deficiency)
To keep tomatoes healthy, stick to a regular feeding schedule.
Also, choose the right type of fertiliser depending on your tomato’s growth stage.
Root-bound tomato plants
A potted tomato can become root-bound when the roots outgrow the container and start circling inside the pot.
This limits the plant’s access to water and nutrients, which can stunt growth and reduce fruit production.
You’ll know that a tomato is root-bound if roots are poking through the pot’s drainage holes. You might also see some roots on the soil surface.
When that happens, you need to repot your tomato!
Carefully remove the plant from its container, then gently tease apart the roots using your hands.
If the root ball is too dense, grab a sharp, clean knife.
Make four, vertical, and evenly spaced cuts around the sides of the root ball. Each cut should go about 1–2cm deep.
Next, replant your tomato in a container about 10cm wider than the original.
Remove the lower set of leaves, and bury the stem slightly deeper than before. Water thoroughly afterwards.
Keep in mind that repotting can be tricky, especially with indeterminate tomatoes that have an extensive support structure.
To avoid this issue in the first place, consider using fabric grow bags, which naturally air-prune roots!
Pests and diseases
Potted tomatoes can suffer from many of the same pests and diseases as those grown in the ground.
Common tomato pests include caterpillars, which often chew leaves and fruits.
You might also find sap-sucking insects like aphids, whiteflies, and thrips, which can hide under the leaves or in stem joints.
To catch pests early, regularly check your tomatoes. You can also set up a net over your plants.
If any parts are heavily infested, trim them off. Then, spray the remaining leaves with an organic spray containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt).
You can also use a mixture of ½ tbsp of neem oil + a few drops of dish soap + 1L of water. Spray the tomato leaves weekly until the pests are gone.
Moreover, diseases caused by fungi or bacteria can also pop up, usually in humid weather. Examples are:
- Septoria leaf spot: brown spots on leaves
- Powdery mildew: white, powder-like coating on leaves
- Bacterial speck: dark spots on leaves with yellow margins
You can avoid these through regular pruning. Also, keep your potted tomatoes well-spaced for good air flow.
And if possible, move the plants to a sheltered location when it’s rainy to keep them from getting too wet.
How to Pick Tomatoes
Knowing when to harvest tomatoes is key to getting the best taste and quality.
One option is to let tomatoes ripen on the vine — this will give you the best flavour!
Alternatively, some gardeners pick tomatoes when they start to show a hint of their final colour (also called the ‘breaker stage’).
This helps protect the fruit from pests and disease.
To harvest tomatoes, locate the “knuckle,” the joint where the fruit stem meets the plant.
Place your thumb over the joint and twist gently until the vine snaps.
You can also use scissors or pruners, especially for varieties with large fruit or clusters, such as cherry tomatoes.
Handle all tomatoes carefully and avoid piling them too high, as they bruise easily!
If you picked tomatoes at the breaker stage, allow the tomatoes to ripen indoors.
Keep them in a well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight, ideally at 21°C–24°C.
FAQs: Growing Tomatoes in Containers
Need more tips to keep your container tomatoes happy? Check out these Q&As!
Can I grow tomatoes in hanging baskets?
Yes, this is a fantastic option if you have limited space! Choose determinate varieties like ‘Tiny Tim’ and ‘Cherry Falls.’
Use a light-coloured, wide basket at least 40cm across. It should also be sturdy, as it can become very heavy when filled with soil and water.
How can I tell if my potted tomatoes are getting enough sunlight?
Without enough light, tomatoes’ stems can become long, thin, and stretched out.
Leaves may turn pale or yellow, and the plant may produce few flowers or fail to produce fruit.
How long do potted tomato plants take to produce fruit?
Tomato plants produce fruit around 50–100 days after planting, depending on the variety!
Keep in mind that inadequate sunlight, water, and nutrients can delay fruit production.
Can I plant basil with tomatoes in pots?
Yes, so long as your container is large enough!
Basil is one of the best companion plants for tomatoes, as it can help deter pests like aphids and whiteflies.
If your pot is on the smaller side, you can also grow basil in a separate container. Place it near your tomatoes to get the pest-repelling benefit.
