If you’re into lowkey gardening, this understated philodendron is perfect for you. There’s no need to rush when caring for a Gloriosum!
The main attraction is the large, velvety leaves in a rich green colour that contrast its striking veins. It may take a while — this variety is a slow grower — but it’s sure to be a stunner.
To keep your philodendron Gloriosum happy, give it plenty of bright, indirect sunlight and moderate to high humidity. Avoid overwatering as it’s prone to root rot.
Let this easygoing plant remind you to go at your own pace and relax. And in our experience, the sight of that big leaf unfurling fully can be pretty, well… glorious!
Potting Mix | Light Requirements | Pot Type | Temperature and Humidity | Watering | Repotting | Propagation | Common Problems
Get to Know the Gloriosum!
Like other types of philodendron, the Gloriosum comes from tropical regions — primarily Colombia. It’s a much rarer variety, only found in the wild in small areas of Central and South America.
Unlike its philodendron cousins, however, the Gloriosum is a creeper, not a climber! It’s a terrestrial type with a crawling growth habit due to a horizontally growing rhizome.
This variety is iconic for its large, heart-shaped leaves that can reach 45–60cm in length. The foliage is a rich green with creamy-white veins radiating from the base.
Those velvety leaves will need some patience, though. Gloriosums are slow growers, and it can take 1–2 months for new leaves to fully unfurl.
Still, when they finally open, you’ll see they’re worth the wait!
Growing Conditions for a Philodendron Gloriosum
The secret to huge, beautifully-veined philodendron leaves is lots of indirect sunlight and humidity.
Pair that with rich, well-draining soil, and your plant should be happy!
Potting mix
Because the philodendron Gloriosum is a terrestrial type, it thrives in rich, chunky soil mixes that allow good drainage.
Look for potting mixes specifically for aroids, which should have plenty of bark chips, perlite, and coco coir. This will retain moisture without becoming soggy — an important factor in preventing root rot.
You can also amend standard houseplant soil with orchid bark, coir, and perlite.
If you’re feeling ambitious, you can plant it in a deep layer of Pon with some sphagnum moss to help retain moisture!
Light requirements
Bright, indirect light is your Gloriosum’s best friend. Put it near an east- or northeast-facing window with lots of morning sun but some shade in the afternoon.
Make sure it’s indirect light, since yes, a Gloriosum can get too much sun — and get its leaves burnt.
On the other hand, too little light and you won’t get those signature large leaves and deep green colour. You’ll also end up with leggy growth.
If you don’t have a good window, put your plant under a full-spectrum grow light!
Pot type
Since Gloriosums are creeping plants, you’ll need a different container — a long, narrow pot that’s more wide than deep. Opt for one that looks like a trough and has plenty of drainage holes.
Your container should be able to accommodate the plant’s chunky rhizomes and horizontal crawling habit.
Temperature and humidity
This is where the philodendron Gloriosum can be a bit picky — it can tolerate average household humidity levels (about 40%), but it will thrive in moderate to high humidity (55–80%).
If you love collecting tropical houseplants (we get you), consider making a DIY indoor greenhouse! All you need is a clear glass cabinet and some strip grow lights.
Otherwise, common techniques for increasing humidity include grouping plants together, using an indoor humidifier, or placing plants in your bathroom.
For temperatures, anything between 18º–30ºC is fine for a Gloriosum.
Caring for a Philodendron Gloriosum
Thankfully, the Gloriosum isn’t super fussy, but it can be particular about watering. Just like Goldilocks, it can’t be too much or too little — it’s got to be just right.
With proper care, you’ll keep your plant healthy and get rewarded with stunning, dark green foliage.
Watering
Gloriosums are sensitive to overwatering, which can cause the roots and creeping stems to rot. However, underwatering can cause the plant to dry out.
There’s no strict schedule for philodendron Gloriosum watering — instead, you’ll need to thoroughly soak the soil when it’s halfway dry.
To avoid getting moisture on the leaves and stems (which could lead to rot), opt for bottom watering! Place the pot in a larger tray or container, and pour water halfway up the side of the pot.
Leave the plant for an hour or two to absorb as much water as it needs, then allow the excess to drain out.
Repotting
Since Gloriosums are fairly slow-growing, you don’t need to repot them very often. A key sign for repotting is foliage creeping or leaning over the pot’s edges.
Other signs you need to repot include small leaves and roots poking out of the drainage holes.
Choose a new pot that’s 3–5cm larger than the current container. Carefully remove the plant from its container, taking care not to disturb the roots.
Check for root rot or hydrophobic soil. If there are no issues, transfer the whole plant — including the soil — to the new pot and fill in any gaps with fresh potting mix.
Give everything a shimmy to settle it, then water thoroughly.
Plant maintenance
So long as your philodendron has rich, good-quality soil mix, it should only need fertiliser in the growing season.
Use a half-strength solution of balanced, slow-release houseplant fertiliser every 4–6 weeks in spring and summer.
Just remember that fertilising does not mean faster growth or larger leaves! In fact, too much can lead to fertiliser burn.
You don’t need to prune a Gloriosum unless you find dead, diseased, or unruly foliage. Snip off any unhealthy growth at the base of the petiole (where leaf meets stem).
Propagating a Philodendron Gloriosum
Unlike other philodendrons, you propagate a Gloriosum through rhizome divisions! The rhizome is the underground “stem” that the plant grows from.
Grab a pair of pruning shears disinfected with rubbing alcohol. Then look for the end of the rhizome growing near the soil’s surface, ideally with some roots and at least one leaf.
Make one clean cut through the rhizome, between two leaf nodes. (Also, be sure the parent plant has several leaves left!)
Let the division sit on a paper towel for a few hours so it callouses or hardens. If it doesn’t have roots, place the rhizome in a small pot of moist sphagnum moss.
Cover the top with some plastic wrap and poke a few holes so the plant can “breathe.” Then place the container in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Mist the sphagnum moss every few days so it doesn’t dry out.
New roots should start showing in a few weeks. When they’re a few centimetres long, transfer the plant to some chunky potting mix and water thoroughly.
Common Problems with Philodendron Gloriosum
This variety is pretty resilient, so your main problems come from improper watering or a possible pest infestation — usually spider mites.
Yellowing leaves
If your philodendron Gloriosum has drooping, yellow leaves, it’s likely suffering from root rot.
Rot comes from overwatering, or watering too frequently. Poor drainage also means the soil holds moisture for too long and becomes soggy, which can suffocate the roots.
Stop watering immediately and inspect the roots. If they’re dark, mushy, and/or smelly, cut off the affected growth with disinfected shears then spray the remainder with a little 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Rinse off the infected soil and repot the plant in fresh potting medium. Wait a few days before watering again.
Brown leaves
Brown leaves with curling edges are a sign of underwatering! Your plant is thirsty, so give it a long soak and look for ways to increase humidity.
On the other hand, dark brown spots on the foliage are a sign of sunburn or scorching. That means your Gloriosum is getting too much sun and it’s burning the leaves.
Move it away from the window and make sure it’s not exposed to direct afternoon sunlight.
Spider mites
Among the most common pests to affect a Gloriosum are spider mites. Look for signs such as:
- “Dusty” foliage
- Discoloured or wilting foliage
- Fine webs between leaves or petioles
- Tiny white or yellow spots under leaves
Isolate the affected plant immediately, as the mites can spread fast. Cut off all the damaged leaves and dispose of them properly — do not compost them.
Spray the entire plant with either diluted neem oil or a solution of equal parts rubbing alcohol and warm water, plus a squirt of dish soap.
Use a soft makeup brush to brush down all the leaves. After each leaf is done, spray it again, then allow the plant to dry in a well-ventilated space.
Avoid using systemic pest solutions, as they can actually stimulate mite reproduction and make the problem worse!
Other pests to look out for are aphids or mealybugs, which can be treated in the same way.
Gloriosum Philodendron FAQs
Besides proper plant care, here are some good things to know about your Gloriosum!
How big does a philodendron Gloriosum get?
Gloriosums can take 2–3 years to reach their full mature size of about 0.9m!
A healthy, happy plant will fill out with large leaves as it “creeps” along its container.
Is the philodendron Gloriosum rare?
Yes, the Gloriosum is one of the rarer philodendrons. It only occurs in a handful of areas in the wild and can be tricky to propagate because it’s slow-growing.
If you’re buying one online, make sure it’s from a reputable nursery or shop — otherwise, you may be purchasing a Glorious or similar hybrid.
Gloriosum vs philodendron Glorious
Their names can be confusing, but the Gloriosum and the Philodendron Glorious are not the same plant.
The Glorious is a hybrid between a Gloriosum and a Melanochrysum. It’s a climbing philo that thrives when attached to supports (like a moss pole or stake) to grow upwards.
Moreover, the leaves of a Glorious are usually narrower, longer, and darker thanks to the characteristics of the Melanochrysum.
Gloriosum vs Crystal anthurium
Crystal anthurium (Anthurium crystallinum) is another rare and prized houseplant that resembles a Gloriosum!
Both have velvety, heart-shaped leaves, but the main difference is in the veins. Gloriosum veins radiate from the base of the leaf and are thinner, with a cream or white colour.
Meanwhile, Anthurium veins branch out from a main striation running up the middle of the leaf. They’re thicker, with a silvery-white or pale green colour.
Anthuriums may also have a bronze or coppery colour on the underside of each leaf. They do not grow very tall, usually reaching just 0.5m in height.
