Are you a new plant parent wondering how to look after your Swiss Cheese Plant? Or maybe you’re looking for advice on growing conditions for your Monstera Peru.
Monsteras are popular as low-maintenance houseplants, but they still need proper care to thrive.
Typically, Monstera plants do best in well-draining soil, with plenty of indirect light and moderate humidity (at least 50%). Water them when mostly dry and give them a sturdy support to climb.
Let your indoor jungle flourish with a lush Monstera (or three, or five). When you know how to care for Monsteras, you’ll get some truly monster-sized plants!
Soil | Sunlight | Humidity | Watering | Staking | Pruning | Fertiliser | Repotting | Variegated Monstera Care | Propagation | Common Problems
Meet the Monstera Family
Monsteras are some of the most popular houseplants, from the humble Monstera adansonii to the showy Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’!
These tropical plants are native to South and Central America. In the wild, they are epiphytic plants, which means they use aerial roots to climb up the trunks of larger plants (like trees).
The plant’s aerial roots also let it take in extra nutrients and water.
Monsteras are best known for their lush foliage, which features the iconic fenestrations. There are over 50 Monstera varieties — some large, some variegated, and some without holes at all.
What to Know About Monsteras
Before we go into Monstera plant care, there are two things to know: fenestrations and cultivars!
Fenestrations are the signature holes in Monstera leaves. There are two kinds — regular fenestrations (holes) and split fenestrations.
Regular fenestrations are holes in the middle of a Monstera leaf that don’t reach the edges. An M. adansonii has regular fenestrations.
Split fenestrations (also called split-leaf fenestrations) are holes that grow to reach the edges of a leaf. They “split” the foliage by creating notches.
The well-loved Monstera deliciosa has split fenestrations — as do its variegated cultivars, which are different forms of a specific Monstera species!
Variegations are common examples of cultivars. They are the same plant species (M. deliciosa) but have unique features (coloured leaves).
M. deliciosa is a species (or variety), while M. deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ is a cultivar.
Growing Conditions for Monsteras
Monsteras aren’t too fussy about their environments, but they do prefer warmth and good humidity! Combine that with adequate light and chunky soil, and your plant will thrive.
What soil for Monsteras?
Like other aroids, Monsteras need chunky, well-draining soil that’s slightly acidic.
Look for soilless aroid mixes, or amend regular houseplant mix with lots of bark and perlite. You want potting soil that retains moisture without getting waterlogged, and allows air circulation.
For a Monstera pot, choose one that has plenty of drainage holes to let out any excess water. Clear nursery pots are great since you can see whether the soil has dried out.
How much sunlight does a Monstera need?
Monsteras will thrive in plenty of bright, indirect light. The best place to put a Monstera plant in Australia is by a north- or northeast-facing window!
However, keep them out of direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves — especially on variegated Monsteras.
If you don’t have a good window, consider a full-spectrum grow light that you can leave on for 8–10 hours a day.
Do Monsteras need humidity?
Yes! As tropical plants, Monsteras prefer moderate to high humidity levels — at least 50%, though ideally 60% or more. Try not to go lower than 45%.
Some Monsteras, like the rare and delicate M. obliqua, need a very humid environment of around 80%.
Besides humidity, Monsteras need a warm environment between 18ºC and 30ºC. Avoid exposing them to drafts (such as near vents or air-conditioning) and temperature fluctuations.
Can Monsteras grow outside in Australia?
Some Monstera varieties, such as the Monstera deliciosa, are considered environmental weeds in Australia. They are not recommended for growing outdoors.
Check your local state or council regulations to see if you can grow a Monstera outside, such as in a garden. If there are allowable varieties to grow outdoors, a professional gardening expert can help get you started!
How to Care for Monsteras Indoors
Monsteras are generally low-maintenance plants, especially the popular M. deliciosa and M. adansonii. Still, with proper care, they’ll be healthy and happy.
How often should I water my Monstera?
Your Monstera watering schedule depends on the size of the pot and the amount of light the plant gets! A good rule of thumb is to water when the soil is mostly dry.
Monsteras don’t like to be dry for long, but they also hate wet feet. Use your finger or a wooden stick to test the moisture levels in the soil before watering.
It’s best to bottom-water your Monstera by placing the pot in a container of water, then letting it soak up the moisture through the drainage holes.
Lift the pot out after an hour or two, then let any excess water drain out.
Should I stake my Monstera?
Monsteras are natural climbers, so staking your plant mimics its behaviour in the wild and helps it thrive.
Some common supports used to stake a Monstera include moss poles, coir poles, and trellises.
Carefully insert the stake into the pot, taking care not to disturb the roots. You can also insert the stake when you repot the Monstera — it’s easier!
Use plant ties or Velcro plant tape to attach the stem to the stake. Make sure to tie between nodes, and don’t tie too tightly. Arrange the plant so the foliage points in the same direction.
Do I need to prune a Monstera?
You generally don’t need to prune a Monstera unless you see unruly or leggy growth, or you want to control the plant’s size and shape.
However, you should prune if there is wilted or diseased foliage. Do not compost the cuttings.
When pruning, use sharp, disinfected pruners or shears to make a clean cut between leaf nodes. If the plant is healthy, save the stems for propagating!
Do Monsteras need fertiliser?
It’s not strictly necessary, but you can give your Monstera a balanced houseplant fertiliser every 3–4 weeks during the growing season — or the warmer months of spring and summer.
Dilute the fertiliser to around half to one-quarter strength, per instructions.
Reduce or stop fertilising during autumn and winter as the plant’s growth slows.
However, if you use a grow light, you can fertilise year-round at a lower concentration. Follow the instructions on the product for correct use.
How do I repot a Monstera?
You should only need to repot your Monstera when it is root-bound or the potting mix is 1–2 years old.
Indoor plants can be repotted at any time of year, but it’s best for the plant to repot during the growing season.
Monsteras can tolerate being slightly root-bound, but it often stunts their growth. Watch for roots growing out of drainage holes or soil drying out too quickly.
Even if the plant isn’t root-bound, though, it’s best to change the soil every 1–2 years to replenish the nutrients.
When repotting, only size up the pot by 5–8cm wider at the top. Ease the plant out of its current container, then inspect the soil and roots.
If there are no issues, brush off any loose soil before transferring the plant to its new container. Backfill the gaps with fresh potting mix, then water the Monstera well to settle it.
Variegated Monstera Care: Tips and Concerns
Variegated Monstera cultivars are much showier thanks to the splashes of colour on the leaves. Depending on the cultivar, the variegation can be cream, white, silver, or gold.
One key thing to note is that variegations are more sensitive to direct sunlight, especially direct afternoon sun. The coloured parts of the foliage can get scorched, a condition called leaf scorch or sunburn.
Some signs of too much sun include your Monstera’s leaves curling or wilting, and brown or black spots on the foliage, especially the edges.
However, you’ll need to make sure the plant gets enough sunlight, or it can lose the variegations!
To find a balance, avoid direct sun — you want plenty of indirect light. Position the plant around 30–50cm from a north or northeast-facing window, or underneath a grow light.
Even with enough light, though, your plant may revert to plain green if the variegation is unstable, such as with M. deliciosa ‘Aurea’.
If you’re lucky, though, you might get a “half-moon” variegation — a leaf that’s half-green, half-coloured! There are even “full moon” leaves that are fully coloured, but these tend to die off easily since they cannot photosynthesise.
When propagating a variegated Monstera, take cuttings with one or more coloured leaves and some variegation on the stem, near the node. This gives you a better chance of keeping the colour in the new plant!
Propagating a Monstera
Two of the easiest ways to propagate a Monstera are in water or soil.
Take your Monstera stem cuttings from the end of a healthy stem. Make a clean cut around 10–15cm from the tip, between two leaf nodes.
Strip the bottom leaves, but be sure there’s at least one leaf near the tip.
To propagate a Monstera in water, place the cuttings in a clear jar or bottle. Add enough filtered water to cover the lowest leaf nodes, where the new roots will emerge.
To propagate a Monstera in soil, prep a small container with moist potting mix. Insert each cutting into the soil, just enough to cover at least one node.
Place the cuttings in a spot with lots of indirect light and good ventilation. Water propagations root more quickly — around 2–4 weeks — while soil propagations may take up to 6 weeks.
Transplant water-propagated cuttings when they have new roots at least 5cm long, with secondary roots. Keep the soil consistently moist for 2–3 weeks so the plant can adjust.
Common Problems with Monsteras
Monsteras may be low-maintenance, but they’re not without some issues!
Like other plants, they can also be vulnerable to problems like pests, root rot, and environmental stress.
Leaves not splitting
If your Monstera’s leaves aren’t splitting, don’t panic!
Monsteras use a lot of energy to develop fenestrations and split them. A leaf that won’t split is usually a sign your Monstera is not getting enough light.
Make sure your plant gets at least 6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight a day. If not, place it under a full-spectrum grow light.
Other possible causes for a Monstera leaf not splitting could be a lack of nutrients or a root-bound plant.
However, keep in mind that some Monstera varieties don’t have fenestrations. Some examples of non-fenestrated varieties include Monstera dubia and Monstera karstenianum ‘Peru’.
Indoor plant pests
Monsteras are susceptible to pests found on indoor plants. Some of the most common pest problems include:
| PEST | SIGNS | TREATMENT |
| Fungus gnats | Small flying insects; yellowing leaves | Yellow sticky traps to catch adults; water with mosquito bits or dunks to kill larvae |
| Mealybugs | Sap residue on leaves (“honeydew”), tiny insects in soil; wilted or dying foliage | Wipe off bugs with cotton bud and rubbing alcohol; systemic pesticide |
| Scale | Sticky residue on leaves; black, sooty mould; brown lumps on stems (can be hard or soft) | Rub scale off with cotton bud and rubbing alcohol; insecticidal soap or systemic insecticide |
| Spider mites | Tiny dots on the leaves; white specks or webbing on leaves and petioles | Wipe off mites and webbing with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol; spray with mix of soap, hydrogen peroxide, and water |
| Thrips | Tiny tan or yellow insects in the soil; brown or silver spots on leaves; black leaf edges; misshapen new growth | Spray leaves with insecticidal soap or neem oil; systemic insecticide |
Be mindful when treating pests — follow any product instructions for dilution or application so you don’t further hurt your plant!
Quarantine any affected Monsteras away from other plants so the pests don’t spread. You may need to prune infested stems or leaves as well.
Root rot
Wilted, yellowing leaves on a Monstera are often a sign of root rot.
Overwatering (watering too often), too-dense soil, and poor drainage are common causes of rot in plants. The overly wet soil suffocates the roots and causes them to rot.
Check the roots of your plant ASAP — if they’re dark, mushy, and smelly, that’s a sign of rot.
Cut off all the affected roots with disinfected shears, then lightly spray the rest with a solution of 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 4 parts water. Repot your Monstera in fresh potting mix and do not water for a few days.
If too many roots have rotted, though, the plant might not survive.
Brown leaves
Dry, brown leaves on a Monstera are a sign of underwatering or low humidity.
The leaves will often curl upwards and feel brittle or crispy to touch. In severe cases, the soil has become hydrophobic and can no longer retain moisture.
Place the pot in a container of tepid water so the soil can rehydrate. Your plant should perk back up after watering, although any brown leaves will be lost.
If the soil is too dry and compact, you’ll need to change it!
Fungal diseases
Indoor plants like Monsteras can also suffer from fungal diseases like leaf spot, sooty mould, and powdery mildew.
Overwatering, too-high humidity, and poor air circulation can all contribute to fungal diseases in plants.
Isolate infected plants and prune off any diseased stems or leaves. You can use neem oil in a spray bottle as a treatment, but fungicides may be more effective.
FAQs About Caring for Monsteras
We’ve rounded up a few more questions people have about Monstera care.
Are Monsteras fast-growing?
In the right growing conditions, yes! Most Monstera varieties can grow 30–60cm a year, and reach maturity in 1–2 years.
However, some varieties — like M. dubia — remain in their juvenile state as indoor plants. They’ll still grow fast, but won’t produce large, fenestrated leaves like they would in the wild.
Can Monsteras grow in water?
Yes — but slowly!
The smaller Monstera varieties are among the indoor plants you can grow in water, whether in a hydroponic setup or as an aquarium plant.
However, you’ll get much slower growth compared to growing your Monstera in soil. You’ll also need to use a water-soluble fertiliser regularly to replenish the nutrients.
Are Monstera plants toxic to cats and dogs?
Yes, most parts of a Monstera are toxic to pets, including cats and dogs. They’re also hazardous for small children!
The leaves and stems contain calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause serious gastrointestinal issues when ingested. Keep your Monsteras away from children and pets.
However, the Monstera deliciosa sometimes produces fruit, which is edible only if fully ripe. Unripe fruits carry the same risk as the rest of the plant.
Are Monsteras expensive?
Not necessarily! The common varieties, such as the Swiss Cheese Plant or M. adansonii, will be more affordable as they’re readily available in nurseries and online shops.
Large M. deliciosa plants, or ones with particularly eye-catching fenestrations, can cost more due to the care and effort put into growing them.
Very rare Monsteras (like M. obliqua) or uncommon variegations (like M. deliciosa ‘Aurea’) may also be more expensive since they’re difficult to obtain or propagate.
Monstera vs Split-leaf philodendron
These may look like similar plants, but the split-leaf philodendron (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) is a different species from a Monstera!
Both the split-leaf philo (or Philodendron Selloum) and Philodendron Xanadu have large, green foliage that resembles a Monstera. However, they have angular lobes sticking outwards, with a feathery appearance.
On the other hand, a Monstera (like the Fruit Salad Plant) has fenestrations or holes that may reach the edge of a leaf. That causes the leaf to “split” into notches.
