Lavender plants are popular in home or indoor gardens, and for good reason! They smell great, their flowers are versatile, and they look fantastic.
And if you want more lavender (or want to gift some), there’s an easy way to get it – propagation!
How to propagate lavender? There are two ways: by taking cuttings or by layering. Cuttings are easier, since you simply take a stem off your mature lavender plant and root it in soil or water.
It’ll take some patience and care, but soon enough you’ll have more lavender plants to give as gifts… or keep all to yourself. (Don’t worry, we get you!)
Can You Propagate Lavender?
Yes, you absolutely can propagate lavender – and it’s very straightforward!
Lavender can be propagated either by taking cuttings or by layering.
Hardwood cuttings are more mature and will take longer to root, while softwood cuttings root easily but must be taken with care.
When to Propagate Lavender in Australia
This will depend on the technique you’re using. If propagating from softwood cuttings, work in spring to early summer, when the plant has not started flowering.
For hardwood cuttings, propagate them in mid-summer to autumn, after the growing season. You can “overwinter” your propagations as well.
Note that lavender flowering season can vary depending on variety and location. In general, peak lavender season is from December to January.
If you’re layering lavender, work from early spring to summer when your plant is “active” and growing.
What Types of Lavender to Propagate in Australia
There are several types of lavender you can grow in Australia, but some are easier to propagate than others.
When propagating lavender, some popular options include:
- English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): This is one of the most popular types, also called “true lavender.” However, since it’s more suited to cool, temperate climates, it’s difficult to grow in more tropical climates.
- Portuguese lavender (Lavandula latifolia): This variety is more suitable to more tropical Australian climate zones, as well as coastal areas. It’s great as a culinary herb and can grow quite tall.
- Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia): This is a hybrid lavender with a heavy scent and later bloom season. It can grow in a wide range of climates, but cannot be used for food.
- French lavender (Lavandula dentata): This variety, also called fringed lavender, has a more delicate scent but longer-lasting blooms. However, it’s also one of the more drought-tolerant types.
You can propagate Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas), but you should only do so in pots. It’s considered an environmental weed in Victoria, Western Australia, and South Australia due to its dense and fast growth.
Look up your local state or council legislation regarding Lavandula stoechas before planting.
NOTE: If you’re thinking of propagating a lavender plant you’ve bought, check the label! Some patented varieties technically cannot be propagated.\
How to Take Lavender Cuttings
The easiest and most effective method of lavender propagation is via cuttings – stems cut from a mature lavender plant. There are two types: softwood and hardwood.
Whenever you’re taking lavender cuttings, make sure to use secateurs or pruning shears that are disinfected and sharp. A quick, clean cut minimises the risk of rot or disease.
When to take lavender cuttings in Australia
You should take softwood cuttings in early spring to summer (September to January), before any blooms appear. Pinch off any buds or flower spikes if necessary.
Take hardwood cuttings in late summer to early autumn (February to May), after the plant is done flowering but right before it goes dormant.
Work in the early morning, before it’s too warm – the heat can dry out the stems!
You can collect cuttings when you prune your lavender plants! That’ll give you a chance to check on your plant’s health, and it’s best to have several cuttings for the most success.
TIP: Water your lavender a few days before to minimise any shock.
How to take softwood lavender cuttings
Softwood cuttings are taken from new growth (or that year’s growth) before flowering. The lavender stems will be soft and green, with a slightly woody base.
You’ll need to work quickly with softwood, as the ends could dry out and reduce the chance of success. Prepare a small pot or tray with moistened starter soil ahead of time.
Choose a stem that’s about 10cm long and gently pull it to the side, away from the main plant. Use the shears to cut the stem off below a node while ensuring there is a “heel” (thin strip of bark) at the end.
Remove leaves from the base, leaving about 4-5cm of bare stem. As an optional step, dip the end in some rooting hormone.
Transfer the cuttings to your rooting medium immediately. Softwood lavender can start showing roots in 2-4 weeks.
How to take hardwood lavender cuttings
Hardwood cuttings are sturdier, but take longer to root due to the harder growth. You’ll be taking these after the growing season, so they’ll be firmer and woodier, with less green.
Look for healthy, straight stems with several leaf nodes (a small bump on the stem). These will be longer than softwood stems – about 10-15cm in length.
Pull the stem to the side and make a clean cut at the base, below the lowest node. Separate it from the parent plant and remove leaves to expose about 4-5cm of bare stem.
As an optional step, you can strip the bark off the base and dip the end in some rooting hormone.
Hardwood stems can take up to 6 weeks to begin showing roots.
How to Propagate Lavender from Cuttings
When growing lavender from cuttings, you can place them directly in soil or root them first in water.
Rooting lavender cuttings in water vs soil
You’re more likely to see success when propagating lavender cuttings in soil than in water.
Like other plants, you can root your cuttings in water. They’ll put out roots faster, and it’s easier to monitor root growth in clear jars or bottles.
However, it’s more difficult to transfer water propagations into soil, as the plants may suffer transplant shock or simply not adapt.
Propagating in soil is slower, but carries less risk of shock or rot.
How to root lavender cuttings in soil
To propagate lavender in soil, you’ll need:
- Small containers (such as nursery pots)
- Starter mix or seed-raising mix
Fill the small pots or trays with starter mix or seed-raising mix until about 2cm below the rim. For softwood propagations, you’ll have to work quickly!
Poke a shallow hole in the soil, enough to fit the stem without the soil reaching the lower leaves. Insert the stem and firm the soil around it so the cutting remains upright.
You can group several cuttings in one pot so long as there’s enough space – the cuttings shouldn’t touch.
If you haven’t pre-moistened the potting mix, water it thoroughly. You can cover the pot with a clear cover or bag, especially if you live somewhere less humid, to create a mini greenhouse.
Some nursery pots come with humidity domes, such as these Clear Plant Nursery Pots. You can also buy separate propagation cloches.
Place the pots in a warm and bright location, but out of direct sunlight. You can let the soil partially dry before watering again, but be consistent – too much or too little water can hinder root growth.
After a few weeks, gently tug at the cuttings. If you feel resistance, that means there are roots! Once rooted, you can transfer the new plants to their own pots or outdoors.
How to root lavender cuttings in water
To propagate lavender in water, you’ll need:
- Clear containers (glass or plastic)
- Distilled or filtered water at room temperature
Any glass or plastic bottle will work, but you can also get propagation stations such as these Propagation Vases or Propagation Planter Glasses.
Place the stems into the container, then add enough water to cover the bottom part of the stem. The exposed nodes should be submerged, but don’t let the water touch the leaves.
Set the containers somewhere warm and bright, but away from direct sunlight. Top up the water about once a week, or pour out half and pour new water.
Softwood stems should begin to show new roots after 2-4 weeks, while hardwood may take 4-6 weeks.
If you notice some green fuzz on the roots or greenish water, that’s algae! It forms when the propagation container is exposed to too much light.
Algae aren’t necessarily harmful, but you can add 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 250ml of water to the container to “clean” it. Let the cuttings stand for about 30 minutes.
Empty the water, then rinse the containers (or disinfect them with more hydrogen peroxide) and the roots. Replace the cuttings and add new water.
When the roots are about 5-7cm long and begin to show secondary roots, transfer the cuttings to pots.
Keep the soil moist for the first 2-3 weeks to lessen the shock and ease the transition to a dry medium.
How to Propagate Lavender by Layering
An alternative method of lavender propagation involves layering. This works best for plants growing out in your garden.
You don’t need to take lavender cuttings here – instead, find a long, low-growing stem on the mature lavender plant. Look for one that’s healthy, with no flowers, and at least 15cm long.
Amend the soil around your plant with some compost or mulch. This will help the roots develop more quickly.
Strip off the leaves around the middle of the stem, where it will lay in the soil. You can make some small cuts and sprinkle rooting hormone into them to encourage growth.
Carefully bend the stem over so it’s touching the ground, then cover it in a thin layer of soil and compost. There should be at least one leaf node under the soil, while the remaining leaves and the tip are exposed.
Anchor the stem with some light stones or a landscape staple. Water the ground well, and keep it consistently moist.
Layered lavender can take several weeks to even months to show new roots. Once you can feel resistance when tugging, you can cut the new plant off and transplant it.
Caring for Lavender Propagations
It’s best to use a starting mix that’s loose, well-draining, and slightly alkaline. Avoid heavy soils like clay, since too much moisture can rot the roots.
If the cuttings start drooping or yellowing, that’s a sign of too much water.
You can propagate lavender anywhere, but it’s easiest to care for the cuttings indoors where you can control their growing conditions.
If you choose to grow lavender outdoors, monitor soil drainage and look out for weeds and pests. It’s a great companion plant for other herbs, like thyme, rosemary, and garlic!
Of course, you can always bring in expert gardeners to help care for all your outdoor plants!
FAQs about Lavender Plant Propagation
Here are a few more tips and bits of useful info about propagating lavender!
Is rooting hormone required for propagation?
Not necessarily! Some gardeners report more success when using rooting hormone for propagations, but many plants will grow roots without it.
However, rooting hormone does contain fungicides and anti-bacterial properties, which can help prevent root rot and other diseases.
TIP: If you don’t have rooting hormone, you can use cinnamon! It won’t boost root growth, but it does have antifungal properties that can prevent the cutting from rotting.
You can also try willow tea, as there has been research to show it encourages faster, healthier root development.
Can I plant propagations directly in the ground?
Yes, you can, but it can be more difficult. Unlike potted propagations, you cannot control the conditions in your garden, so there are more risks to the young shoots.
When propagating lavender outdoors, plant the cuttings in partial shade (no direct sunlight), out of the wind. Pay close attention to ground moisture, weeds, and pests.
How long will propagated lavender take to mature?
Propagated lavender plants can take at least a year to establish themselves and begin to flower.
You’ll have to be patient, but good plants take time!
How to water propagated lavender plants?
If you grow lavender cuttings directly in potting mix, you can let it partially dry between watering. The cuttings don’t have roots yet, so can’t properly take up water – too much moisture could rot the stems.
For cuttings propagated in water, keep the soil moist after you’ve transferred them. Water regularly to make the transition from water to soil easier.
