Lavender is an incredibly popular plant to grow in your garden – and for good reason!
Combine a heavenly scent, gorgeous flower spikes, and low-maintenance care and you get a hardy semi-shrub.
And since lavender is so adaptable, it’s easy to grow and care for in your garden.
You can grow lavender in Australia from seeds, cuttings, or young plants. The best conditions are full sun, well-drained soil or potting mix, and hot, dry climates.
Don’t worry if you forget to water sometimes – they don’t mind going a while without a drink.
Dreaming of a scent-sational garden full of lush lilac? Time to grow some lavender plants!
Best Varieties to Grow | Best Time to Plant Lavender | Growing Conditions | How to Grow | Where to Grow | Lavender Care | Common Problems | Common Questions
Lavender Plants: An Overview
Lavandula spp. is a perennial semi-shrub native to the Mediterranean and Middle Eastern regions. It thrives in warm, dry climates and poor soils.
Lavender is actually part of the mint family, although the plant is a slow grower unlike its cousins. It’s best known for its lilac flowers and grey-green foliage.
In Australia, lavender starts flowering in early spring into summer. Peak flowering season is from December to January, though some varieties bloom as late as mid-autumn.
What is the Best Lavender to Grow in Australia?
There are several lavender varieties, each with their preferred conditions. These are some of the best types of lavender to grow in Australia.
Spanish lavender or Topped Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is not included as it is now classified as an environmental weed in several states.
English lavender
Lavandula angustifolia is also called true lavender, and it’s the most “classic” of lavenders.
English lavender is best suited to cool, temperate climates – mild to warm summers and mild winters. It doesn’t like humidity, although some subspecies are more tolerant.
You can grow it in regions with cooler temperatures since it is moderately frost-tolerant.
French lavender
You’ll recognise Lavandula dentata by its textured flowers, which give it the nickname “fringed lavender.”
The compact flowers have a lighter colour and more delicate scent, but have one of the longest-lasting seasons. In Australia, it can bloom until mid-autumn.
French lavender likes hot, dry climates – in fact, it’s one of the more heat and drought-tolerant varieties. It can also take moderate humidity and is cold-tolerant down to about -7ºC.
Hybrid lavender
Lavandin (or Lavandula x intermedia) is a hybrid lavender that combines the cold tolerance of the English variety with the heat tolerance of the Portuguese variety.
That allows it to cover a range of climates, from hot summers to cool winters. You can even grow it in coastal areas, although it can only take mild humidity.
Lavandin is one of the later-blooming types and often doesn’t get started until mid-summer.
Another hybrid that can you the characteristics of Spanish lavender is Lavandula stoechas x viridis ‘Avonview’!
This is a hybrid with the rarer Lavandula viridis, or “green lavender.” Also known as Italian lavender, Lavandula stoechas x viridis ‘Avonview’ is one of Queensland’s Grow Me Instead™ alternatives for Spanish lavender.
Still, it’s best to check local council or state regulations to see if you can grow Italian lavender outdoors.
Portuguese lavender
Lavandula latifolia has one of the strongest scents, so it makes very fragrant oils – you might even see it grown in lavender farms!
Portuguese lavender likes warm climates, so both warm summers and winters. It’s one of the more heat-tolerant varieties, but will need winter protection when young.
It does great in pots and the flowers attract lots of butterflies.
When is the Best Time to Plant Lavender in Australia?
For cuttings and seeds, it’s best to plant lavender in autumn.
Hardwood cuttings are best for propagation, and they’re taken in autumn after flowering. On the other hand, lavender seeds must undergo a cold period to germinate – so planting before winter is perfect.
Seedlings or starter plants can be planted in spring (September to November), so they can establish themselves before the growing season.
In mild to cool (e.g. most of Victoria) and temperate (e.g. Sydney) climates, you can plant lavender from mid to late autumn.
In subtropical climates like Brisbane, try planting between mid-autumn and early winter.
Lavender Growing Conditions
As a low-maintenance plant, lavender isn’t too picky about its conditions. In fact, it’s adapted to poor soils in dry climates.
Still, when growing lavender in Australia, these are the best conditions for your plants to thrive.
Climate
Lavender is endemic to warm, dry summers and mild winters. Think Mediterranean and temperate climates.
The plants prefer low humidity, so they do not do well in tropical climates. For sub-tropical regions, your best bet is Lavandula dentata or a hybrid.
Where does lavender grow best in Australia? It will thrive anywhere with cool, temperate, or arid climates – so most places! In fact, some places in Tasmania have the same climate as Provence, France – both well-known for their lavender fields.
However, only some varieties (such as French lavender) can grow in subtropical places such as Queensland. The plants will struggle in tropical regions such as Northern Australia or too-cold regions in Tasmania.
Soil type
Lavender grows best in well-drained soil that’s slightly alkaline (pH 7.0-8.0).
Avoid clay soils since these retain too much moisture, which can lead to root rot. Amend any heavy soils and consider planting lavender in raised beds.
The plant doesn’t like acidic soil, so try adding agricultural lime or finely ground eggshells to raise the soil pH. Meanwhile, too much nitrogen will hurt flower production.
For potted plants, choose a well-draining potting mix with chunky elements like pumice, sand, and coco chips.
Sunlight
Outdoor lavender loves full sun, so put it somewhere it gets at least six hours of direct sunlight a day – preferably afternoon sun. It may need some shade if temperatures go over 40-45ºC (104-113ºF), though.
It can tolerate partial shade, so you can grow it as ground cover or alongside fences and walkways.
Place your lavender somewhere out of any strong winds.
For potted lavender indoors, you’ll want morning sun – about six hours as well.
How to Grow Lavender in Australia
You can grow a lavender plant in three ways: seeds, propagations, or starter plants.
Any method is straightforward, though some take longer than others!
Growing lavender from seed
You can grow lavender from seed, but it’s more difficult and takes a longer time. However, it can be more economical – especially if you want lots of plants.
To increase your chances of success, lavender seeds need a cold period to germinate. If the weather isn’t right, you can “cold stratify” the seeds.
Sprinkle them on a moist paper towel and place them in a resealable bag. Place the bag in the fridge for 3-4 weeks, then take the seeds out to sow.
Prep a seed tray or pot with some seed-starter mix. You can pre-moisten the soil to make things easier.
Press the lavender seeds about 0.5cm deep, then gently cover them with more soil.
Place the tray somewhere warm, with bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the soil moist while the seeds germinate.
Once the seedlings reach 7.0cm in height (in about 2-3 weeks), they’re reading for transplanting. You can group several in a larger pot, or move them outdoors.
When transplanting seedlings into the garden, space them about 30-40cm apart.
Water once or twice a week (especially in their first summer), then cut it down to once every 2-3 weeks in cooler weather.
Growing lavender from cuttings
The easiest way to grow lavender successfully is with cuttings!
You’ll have the most success propagating lavender from hardwood cuttings (taken after flowering) planted directly into potting mix.
You can also try propagating with softwood cuttings (taken before flowering), though they have a higher risk of rotting.
To take hardwood cuttings, look for healthy stems with several leaf nodes. Cut off about 10-15cm of stem, below the lowest leaf node.
Don’t cut back all the way to the woody stems, or you won’t get any new growth.
Place the cuttings into small pots filled with starter mix, and set them somewhere warm with indirect sunlight. Let the soil partially dry before watering.
Growing lavender from young plants
You can purchase starter plants or young plants from your local nursery! Check what types of lavender they have available – they’ll know which grow best in your area.
Check your soil first and make sure it’s appropriate (such as by doing a soil test). Then dig a planting hole about twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball.
Alternatively, you can base the size of the hole on the size of its existing container.
Carefully lift the plant out of its container and check for any plugs or meshes. Remove these before planting so they don’t restrict the roots.
Untangle any roots that have curled or twisted, and inspect the roots for any rot. If any are dark or mushy, cut them off and spray the roots with a little 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Place the plant into the hole and carefully backfill, lightly firming down the soil. Water well, then keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Water about 1-2 times a week in its first summer, then taper to once every 2-3 weeks in cooler weather.
Where to Grow Lavender
Lavender can grow both indoors and outdoors so long as it gets enough sunlight.
You might even see more success indoors since you can control the humidity and water levels.
Growing lavender in pots
It’s easy to grow your lavender in pots – especially terracotta ones! One of the best methods is to group a few cuttings in a pot and nurture them into mature plants.
For starter or established plants, choose a pot that’s only 2-4cm larger than the root ball. Too much potting mix takes longer to dry – and lavender doesn’t like wet feet!
Make sure the pot has enough drainage holes and keep an eye on the dampness. You can use a moisture meter or wooden chopstick to keep track.
You may need to prune twice a year (spring and autumn) to keep the plant at a manageable size. Watch for roots poking out from the bottom as well – lavender likes to stretch, and needs repotting once it’s rootbound.
Growing lavender in the ground
The biggest concern about planting lavender in the ground is water. Outdoor plants can subsist mostly on rainfall, except during dry periods.
You’ll need to water more frequently during the hotter months, especially if your plants are in a sunny location.
If your lavender sits in partial shade, water less frequently as the soil will be slower to dry out.
And yes, you can grow lavender into a hedge – just prune it regularly to maintain its shape and appearance.
You can also grow it alongside companion plants to make an aesthetic garden border or hedge.
Lavender Care in Australia
Once you’ve gotten your plant established and growing, you’ll need to care for it.
Low maintenance doesn’t mean no gardening at all!
Watering
Lavender is drought-tolerant, but all plants need water to thrive.
As a general rule, water lavender when the soil has mostly dried out. In the hotter months, water about once a week – as long as the soil is dry.
Do a deep soak from the base to avoid getting water on the flowers and stems, which could lead to rot.
For potted lavender, try bottom watering. Fill a tray or bucket with water – no more than halfway up the pot. Place the pot inside and leave it for at least an hour so the potting mix can absorb water.
It’s fine if the soil doesn’t get wet to the top layer, as long as there’s moisture further down.
Pruning
Pruning lavender is an essential part of plant care – it keeps your plant healthy, encourages new growth, and promotes good air circulation.
The best time to prune a lavender plant is after it flowers. For most lavenders, this will be in autumn (March to April).
You can also lightly prune in spring, before the blooming season.
A good rule of thumb for autumn pruning is to cut back one-third the length of the stems, or about 5-10cm above any new growth.
Never cut back to the woody base, since the plant won’t grow from old wood.
If you grow lavender in hedges, tag in an expert gardening service to help prune and maintain all those shrubs.
Fertilising
Lavender plants typically don’t need fertiliser, especially English lavender! After all, they’ve evolved to grow in poor soil conditions and nutrition.
Moreover, too much nitrogen will cause your plants to focus on growing branches and leaves instead of putting out flowers.
If necessary, apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser ahead of the growing season, or liquid fertiliser during flowering.
You can use organic mulch, but opt for coarse material like crushed nutshells. Avoid bark or plant-based mulch (like straw) since these retain moisture and could lead to mould.
Always mulch away from the base so you don’t risk any rot.
Do not fertilise English lavender.
Flowering
This isn’t necessary, but there are benefits to deadheading lavender!
Deadheading is the practice of removing spent lavender flowers to tidy up the shrub’s appearance and check its health. It can even encourage the plant to put out more flowers!
After the first flush, look for any fading blooms and follow the stem to the base. Count 1-2 leaf nodes or sets of leaves above the woody base, then cut half a centimetre above the node.
You can keep the cuttings to make aromatic oils, dried flowers, and even flavoured butter.
Common Problems in Lavender Plants
Lavender may not be a fussy plant, but certain conditions can cause it to decline.
Keep an eye on your plants for anything out of the ordinary!
Root rot
If you notice drooping stems, yellowing leaves, or dried-out branches – your lavender may be dying.
One of the most common causes is overwatering, which leads to root rot. If you’re able, check the roots to see if they’re dark, mushy, or smelly.
You’ll need to stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out. For potted plants, change out the potting soil and don’t water for a few days.
If there are signs of rot, you will have to cut off the affected roots and change the soil or potting mix.
Fungal disease
Lavenders are hardy plants and are typically resistant to pests and disease, but they can get sick!
Alfalfa mosaic virus, shab, and Botrytis are all fungal diseases that can affect lavender.
For mosaic virus and shab, you’ll need to dispose of the plants immediately to prevent the disease from spreading.
Transplant shock
This primarily happens if you propagate lavender or grow it from seed.
When you move seedlings or young plants from one medium to another (such as from water to soil), they may suffer transplant shock.
The roots are struggling to adapt to the new medium, so the stems, leaves, and flowers may wilt. Aggressive handling, accidental root damage, and drastic environmental changes can also cause shock.
There’s nothing to do but give the plant proper care and wait. Sometimes, plants simply don’t adapt – that’s just how nature works!
Common Questions About Lavender Plant Care
Got more questions about growing lavender in Australia? Check below for more helpful info!
Is lavender easy to grow?
Lavender is easiest to grow from cuttings or young plants. You can grow it from seed, but it’s more difficult and takes longer.
Once the plant is mature, though, lavender is low-maintenance!
Can I grow Spanish lavender in Australia?
You cannot grow Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas, also called Topped Lavender) in several states, including Victoria and Western Australia, as it is classified as an environmental weed.
Other states such as NSW consider it “naturalised” and a pest plant.
The fast-spreading nature of Lavandula stoechas means the seeds can escape gardens and enter local ecosystems, where Spanish lavender can overtake local or native plants.
Check your local state or council regulations regarding Spanish lavender – if allowed, you’ll likely have to grow it in indoor pots.
Is lavender hardy?
Lavenders are drought-hardy, but not all varieties are frost-tolerant. Some varieties will struggle in cold weather.
Moreover, these shrubs may like arid conditions, but they can still suffer heat stress! Temperatures above 45ºC (113ºF) can affect your plant, especially English and French lavender.
Does lavender need full sun?
Full sun is best for outdoor lavender – at least six hours a day. However, the plant can tolerate partial shade, so long as you’re careful with your watering schedule.
Less sunlight means the soil will take longer to dry out, so you’ll need to wait longer before giving your plant a drink.
For indoor potted lavender, opt for morning sun or bright, indirect sunlight.
How long does lavender live?
Lavandula is a long-lived plant – with proper care, lavender’s lifespan can last 10-15 years. Some hardier varieties may even live as long as 20 years.
Even with regular pruning and maintenance, though, lavender eventually grows woody. This is a just natural part of its lifespan, so love your lavender while it lasts!
What is lavender’s frost tolerance?
Not all lavender varieties are frost-tolerant.
English lavenders can handle temperatures as low as -19ºC, but French and Spanish lavenders are susceptible to damage in single-digit weather.
Why is my lavender not flowering?
Lavender only blooms when it’s in season – depending on the variety, it can start in mid-spring or early summer.
For young plants, they might not begin flowering until after their first year. Some varieties take up to 3 years to mature!
However, several factors may cause your plant not to flower in season, such as:
- Too much nitrogen
- Not enough light
- Overwatering
- Improper pruning
- Acidic soil conditions
It could also be that you’ve planted the wrong variety for your climate. Check your local nursery or garden centre – they’ll know best!
